My Aromatic Journey

As a child, I loved blending scents and making potions… When I was “of the appropriate age,” (1988? I was about 12 or so…) I was taken to the iconic and still standing Perfume House in Portland to choose my own “signature scent.” Ever sure of my youthful decisions, I dove right in and selected Sung, by Alfred Sung. It is not for the faint of heart, to be sure. It’s heady, thick, honey sweet, floral, long lasting and ends up with a powerful, French oil and musky, spicy Oriental finish. I felt invincible when I wore it.  When I was old enough to explore the city with friends, we discovered an essential oils shop, and my passion blossomed - my imagination ran wild with the possibilities of scent-filled combinations. 

I can still recall the smell of Giorgio Beverly Hills in the yellow and white striped box. It broke in my third grade teacher’s purse, soaking her handbag in the most intoxicating spell. My own mother wore the fresh, clean Calyx - crisp and clean grapefruit. If it was a special occasion, the muguet white lily aromas of White Shoulders lingered in the hallway at the top of the stairs after her departure. My grandmother wore Violette less than she admired the bottle, but smelled of Avon Skin So Soft during the summer. Both my mother and grandmother were laundry queens, their fresh, deeply scented laundry a far cry from the laundry I wash over and over! A favorite uncle went to France on a business trip - upon the unsuccessful search for a drugstore perfume called Naf Naf, he spoke to a perfume counter and brought back a lovely, pearlescent bottle of Noa, by Cacharel. Scents can carry us back in time, spark the imagination, or help us feel even more truly ourselves.

As a sniffer of scents, I adore round, purple, grapey, musky, spicy, grassy, citrus, and warm notes. Single scents captivate me—grass, dirt, tomato, honey—the essences of life. Soapy commercial scents? Not my cup of tea, except for the nostalgic Irish Spring. I’ll ask you about favorite scents and unabashedly share mine - I am a sucker for anything apricot, honey, jasmine, freesia, lemon, patchouli (sorry, sorry, I KNOW), black pepper, cardamom, vanilla and blackberry. I vividly recall household scents like laundry detergent and Oil of Olay when I was young, and the dance of warm and cold air in the summer between the fir trees. Maybe a memory or two will pop into your head and cast you back in time as you explore here…

My journey learning and trying to master some aspect of the art of perfumery from 1993 to now has seen significant evolution, driven by advancements in technology, increased access to information, and a growing appreciation for artisanal craftsmanship.

1. Early Stages (1993-2000s)

In the early 1990s, I had limited resources. Learning was primarily through apprenticeships, formal education at specialized institutions, or self-study using available literature, all of which I had NONE! I visited Powell’s Books and began to collect material on aromatherapy, perfumery, foraging, and distillation methods:

  • Traditional Methods: Perfumers relied heavily on traditional methods and natural ingredients. Understanding the balance of notes required extensive hands-on experience and mentorship.

  • Limited Access: Access to rare ingredients and advanced techniques was often restricted to established perfumeries and large fragrance houses.

2. The Digital Revolution (2000s-2010s)

The advent of the internet and digital resources transformed my learning landscape:

  • Online Resources: Aspiring perfumers gained access to a wealth of information through online courses, forums, and digital libraries. This democratized knowledge and allowed for a broader exchange of ideas. I began classes in aromatherapy and herbal medicine.

  • Innovation in Ingredients: Advances in synthetic chemistry introduced new aroma molecules, expanding the perfumer’s palette and enabling more complex and innovative creations. In 2004, I discovered Luca Turin’s work through “The Emperor of Scent,” by Chandler Burr.

3. Modern Era (2010s-Present)

Today, the learning curve continues to evolve with further technological advancements and a resurgence in artisanal practices. I use my experience in herbs, aromatherapy and brewing to create new combinations of accords and notes. Despite new technology, my cabin laboratory remains quite simple as I blend each bottle by hand:

  • Advanced Tools: Modern perfumers use sophisticated tools and software to analyze and create fragrances. Gas chromatography and mass spectrometry, for example, allow for precise analysis of scent compositions (and synthetic notes that are exact replicas!).

  • Sustainability and Ethics: There is a growing emphasis on sustainable and ethical sourcing of ingredients, reflecting a broader societal shift towards environmental consciousness. Upcycled scents are a great example of the shift towards responsible stewardship of fragrance materials,

Understanding the Balance of Notes

Creating a balanced perfume involves a deep understanding of how different notes interact:

  • Top, Middle, and Base Notes: Perfumers learn to balance these layers to ensure a harmonious and evolving scent experience. Top notes provide the initial impression, middle notes form the heart of the fragrance, and base notes offer lasting depth.

  • Accords and Blends: Mastering the creation of accords (combinations of notes that form a new, unified scent) is crucial. This requires both technical knowledge and an intuitive sense of smell.

Differences from Using Stock Fragrances

1. Custom Blending vs. Stock Fragrances

  • Customization: Custom blending involves selecting and combining individual notes to create a unique fragrance. This process is highly personalized and allows for creative expression.

  • Stock Fragrances: These are pre-made blends from bulk suppliers, designed to replicate popular scents. They offer consistency and cost-effectiveness but lack the uniqueness of custom creations.

2. Quality and Complexity

  • Pure Ingredients: Custom perfumes often use high-quality, pure essential oils and natural ingredients, resulting in richer and more complex scents.

  • Synthetic Blends: Stock fragrances may rely more on synthetic ingredients, which can sometimes lack the depth and authenticity of natural components.

3. Skill and Artistry

  • Perfumers’ Expertise: Creating a custom fragrance requires a deep understanding of olfactory science, creativity, and years of practice. It’s an art form that involves both technical skill and artistic intuition.

  • Fragrance Dealers: Using stock blends requires less specialized knowledge. The focus is on efficiency and replication rather than innovation and artistry.

My journey from 1993 to now has seen significant advancements in the field of perfumery. Luca Turin was the hinge pin for me, as I began understanding the balance of notes.

The differences between custom blending and stock fragrances highlights the importance of skill, creativity, and quality in creating unique and memorable scents. Whether you appreciate the artistry of a bespoke perfume or the accessibility of a stock fragrance, knowing these distinctions enriches your olfactory experience.